We spent last night in Eureka. It was at one time a major port on the California coast. It is, like all the towns we have passed through, fundamentally industrial in character. The people are not hostile, but are, broadly, uneducated, unsophisticated, and working many lower wage jobs in dead-end places. While the natural world of California is magnificent, the works of human hands and society are mediocre at best.
We spent last night in the Eagle House Victorian Inn. It is the single worst hotel experience of my life. There were no curtains, no one on site after 7 PM, no one on site for the 'breakfast' this morning, fire damage to the window sills, a grossly outdated bath with a MIRROR in the bathtub. There was no COLD water. All taps produced hot water, scaldingly hot water. You can sterilize yourself but you can't bathe. The furniture was a miserable mix of 'antiques', which should be understood as whatever the owner could find that was vaguely old enough to fool yokels into believing it was Victorian. It was all in bad condition. There were no curtains, only sheers. Unbelievable.
We went down the Avenue of the Giants, the old route for US 101, and a part of Humboldt State Park. We thought this would be the 'main event' for redwoods. Instead, our deeply moving experience in Jed Smith State Park was the winner. AOTG is commercialized, has the new 101 freeway right next to it so that road noise is ever-present, and has groomed groves sponsored by various organizations. It is the difference between encountering a breaching orca in the ocean, and seeing one swimming in circles in a tank at SeaWorld. The forest was no longer awe-inspiring. It had been tamed and defeated by Man. It was a garden, not a forest. So sad.....
Then we drove over the coastal ranges to Mendocino. Google shows many small towns along the route. Well, Google is wrong. There was no gas station, water, food, bathroom or any other convenience for about 50 miles through the mountains. The 'towns' turned out to be named collections of 'houses', the majority of which are trailers in desperate need of repair. The total population of all these 'towns' was less than 2500 people over 50 miles. We were in Fort Bragg before we could get lunch. The route was incredibly beautiful but also very challenging, with an average speed of about 30 mph around hairpin turns and switchbacks up and down the slopes.
I have no idea what anyone who lives in these areas does for a living. I can see someone is living, but I don't know how. The dwellings reminded me of Marvolo's shack in Harry Potter book 6- filthy, covered with mold and moss, no windows, campers attached as 'extra rooms'.
It is worthy of contemplation that these people are US citizens like anyone else, a part of a country that ignores and despises them. People in Philly, NYC, Washington, Atlanta, etc have no understanding of these people, and the pretensions of the city and the struggles of national politics mean nothing to them.
California itself is beautiful. The people, and the society, are not.....
Ted
We spent last night in the Eagle House Victorian Inn. It is the single worst hotel experience of my life. There were no curtains, no one on site after 7 PM, no one on site for the 'breakfast' this morning, fire damage to the window sills, a grossly outdated bath with a MIRROR in the bathtub. There was no COLD water. All taps produced hot water, scaldingly hot water. You can sterilize yourself but you can't bathe. The furniture was a miserable mix of 'antiques', which should be understood as whatever the owner could find that was vaguely old enough to fool yokels into believing it was Victorian. It was all in bad condition. There were no curtains, only sheers. Unbelievable.
We went down the Avenue of the Giants, the old route for US 101, and a part of Humboldt State Park. We thought this would be the 'main event' for redwoods. Instead, our deeply moving experience in Jed Smith State Park was the winner. AOTG is commercialized, has the new 101 freeway right next to it so that road noise is ever-present, and has groomed groves sponsored by various organizations. It is the difference between encountering a breaching orca in the ocean, and seeing one swimming in circles in a tank at SeaWorld. The forest was no longer awe-inspiring. It had been tamed and defeated by Man. It was a garden, not a forest. So sad.....
Then we drove over the coastal ranges to Mendocino. Google shows many small towns along the route. Well, Google is wrong. There was no gas station, water, food, bathroom or any other convenience for about 50 miles through the mountains. The 'towns' turned out to be named collections of 'houses', the majority of which are trailers in desperate need of repair. The total population of all these 'towns' was less than 2500 people over 50 miles. We were in Fort Bragg before we could get lunch. The route was incredibly beautiful but also very challenging, with an average speed of about 30 mph around hairpin turns and switchbacks up and down the slopes.
I have no idea what anyone who lives in these areas does for a living. I can see someone is living, but I don't know how. The dwellings reminded me of Marvolo's shack in Harry Potter book 6- filthy, covered with mold and moss, no windows, campers attached as 'extra rooms'.
It is worthy of contemplation that these people are US citizens like anyone else, a part of a country that ignores and despises them. People in Philly, NYC, Washington, Atlanta, etc have no understanding of these people, and the pretensions of the city and the struggles of national politics mean nothing to them.
California itself is beautiful. The people, and the society, are not.....
Ted
I agree: the Jedediah Smith State Park is a wonderful experience, allowing one to walk among the giants and to contemplate their history - and yours - in the grand scheme of things...
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